Vol. 5, No. 10, October 2008
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Reason to Celebrate
Sonsie reinvents itself with a new menu, a new attitude and new discounts just for casino workers.
The word in question is “fabulous.” Under new management, with a whole new philosophy, Sonsie has moved away from its former fabulousness and a somewhat posh image to become friendlier, a little more relaxed—more neighborhood bistro than upscale boite.
“Le Bec Fin can get away with being fabulous, but hardly anyone else can,” says Director of Operations Matthew Schlott, imported to Atlantic City by the Lyons Group of Boston to reconstitute Sonsie’s image and update its menu. “We have a new message and a new direction. We have great food, simply prepared. Sonsie is perfect for locals and casino workers who want a quick meal without a lot of fluff or pretense.” The restaurant invites all casino workers to stop by for 20 percent off food and drinks in the lounge area.
In the past, Sonsie built its reputation on two-to-three-hour dinners, extravagant feasts that few could find time for. Now you can dine and be on your way in an hour. But despite the emphasis on no-frills, non-fabulous dining, the food at Sonsie is still extraordinary.
Thanks to our attentive server Alex, we were well taken care of when we visited, with no detail overlooked. Even slices of lime and lemon that accompanied our water were presented prettily fanned on a plate. Alex knew his menu from top to bottom, and guided our choices.
To start, we ordered warm goat cheese salad. The crisp fried cheese, served on beet carpaccio salad and dressed in a tart citrus vinaigrette, was so flavorful, so multi-textured—so sweet, creamy and crunchy at the same time—it could have stood alone as a meal. This appetizer was uniquely satisfying. We also ordered Vietnamese-style spring rolls, a vegetarian delight in sweet and sour dipping sauce.
The main course was Mediterranean sea bass, pan-seared and served with a rich blend of tomatoes, green beans, fingerling potatoes, leeks and caper berries. The fish was delicate and firm but so tender it fell apart at a touch of the fork. This was a superior meal, perfect for fall.
Chef Brian Perry eschews beurre blanc and other heavy dressings; as a result, the new menu is made up of assertive but un-fussy entrees, like the 12-ounce double cut pork chop or roasted free-range chicken, each served with chimichurri and Sonsie’s special steak sauce.
Perry’s meats and fish are primarily grilled or pan-seared; go ahead and dress them up with a marvelous side dish, including creamy lobster mashed potatoes, Parmesan truffle fries and wild mushroom ragout.
The bar serves brick-oven pizza, hearty sandwiches and good drinks, reasonably priced. The restaurant is also open for breakfast and lunch (enter through Caesars when the Pier is not open). Schlott raves about the roasted banana and chocolate chip French toast. The coffee is excellent.
Sonsie has made it a point to become involved in local charitable efforts, including fundraisers for Gilda’s Club. “If we’re going to ask the community to support us,” says Schlott, “we have to support the community.”
In the past, the restaurant aspired to a kind of gourmet grandeur that was not quite right for the marketplace.
“We thought, ‘We are going to be fabulous, and you’re going to grow into it,’” says Schlott. “Well, we are not Vegas, San Diego or L.A. We’re Philly and New York. We’re Bayonne and the Oranges. We’re Germantown.”
Sonsie is also Atlantic City. And truth to tell—it’s just fabulous.
LOUNGE OF RENOWN
In the poem To A Haggis, Scottish bard Robert Burns addressed this traditional Scottish dish with the words, “Fair fa’ your honest sonsie face / Great Chieftain o’ the puddin’ race.”
The word “sonsie” can be loosely interpreted as “jolly” or “spirited.” As befits an establishment with Gaelic roots, Sonsie in Atlantic City is a dedicated watering hole offering more than 300 brands of wine and an impressive list of specialty drinks.
The most popular among them may be the “!#@&’n Good Cosmo,” so christened last summer by a female fan who loved the refreshing mix of strawberry Stolichnaya, fresh strawberries, pineapple juice and Cointreau with a splash of fresh lime.
Others to try: the Mimosa Martini (with Svedka Clementine, Citronage liqueur, champagne and orange juice); the Mango Margarita (with fresh mango puree, Sauza Blanco and Citronage liqueur); the Psycho Jake (with Svedka vodka, wasabi Bloody Mary mix and fresh ginger); and the Blood Orange Martini (with L’Orange vodka, Cointreau and blood orange juice).
Specialty drinks change with the season.
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