Casino Connection Atlantic City

Taste of Philly (by way of France)

by Sharon Harris-Zlotnick

The Chaine des Rotisseurs, an international gastronomic society founded in Paris in 1950, promotes fine dining throughout the world to its member chapters in 70 countries. The southern New Jersey chapter held a member dinner on September 19 at Mia, the Mediterranean Italian bistro restaurant at Caesars Atlantic City.

Mia is the third collaboration of prominent Philadelphia chefs Georges Perrier and Chris Scarduzio. They opened Mia last December, named for Scarduzio’s daughter. Their aim was to “introduce Atlantic City to Philadelphia taste.”

Perrier began his culinary career at 14 in his native Lyon, France. After immigrating to the U.S., he opened his flagship five-star Le Bec-Fin in Philadelphia in 1970. Perrier has continually won national culinary awards since then.

Scarduzio, a 1988 honor graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, began working for Perrier in 1997. He quickly advanced to executive chef, and then partner, at Perrier’s casual bistro, Brasserie Perrier. In 2005, the two opened Brasserie Perrier Café at Boyds, Philadelphia’s fine men’s store.

Mia’s sleek, hip décor targets the 25- to 45-year-old customer. The cutting-edge design features 40-foot-high ceilings, columns, sheer burgundy and plum drapes serving as outer walls, white linen tablecloths and china. Mia seats 140 inside the main dining room. The customized bar features a unique cruvient/wine dispensing system that serves 20 wines by the glass in five-ounce pours. A full selection of mixed drinks, including specialty cocktails, is also available.

Prior to the September dinner, a cocktail hour of bruchetta, asparagus in puff pastry, goat cheese, seafood risotto, crabmeat and apple, plus a host of other items, were butlered to the 100-plus in attendance.

The five-course dinner was inspired in part by Mia’s regular daily menu. It ran the gamut to include scallops, braised lamb and tomato ragu, Mediterranean sea bass with lobster ravioli (at left) and grilled New York strip steak with braised short ribs.

Perrier and Scarduzio have mastered a combination of fresh fishes, meats, poultry, veal and game, topped with unique sauces for distinctive flavors. Wines and fruits are key basic ingredients in several sauces that complement numerous platters. Fresh vegetables accompany the main courses as side dishes. Pastas and risottos use fish and seafood infused in the sauces. Entrees are in the $20s and $30s.

Homemade desserts from the in-house pastry chef include rich, creamy versions of favorites like tiramisu, crème brulee and chocolate extravaganza. Fresh, seasonal fruits are used as a basis for the sweets, plus a variety of homemade gelatos and sorbets. The evening of the event, the featured dessert was a homemade almond ice cream with roasted figs.

Reservations are required on weekends. The dinner hours are 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday; dinner is served until 11 p.m. on weekends. The Lounge Menu is served from 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. on weekends. The bar and lounge area remain open until 2a.m. Sunday, Wednesday and Thursday, and until 3 a.m. on weekends. Major credit cards, plus Caesars cash and comps, are accepted.

Chef's Corner

As the sommelier for the restaurant Le Bec-Fin in Philadelphia, Christophe Tassan is a recognized expert in wine. His extensive training in France has led him to top positions in places such as Avignon and Monaco, as well as other parts of Europe and Asia. He is the man Georges Perrier relies on to pair the right beverage with his food. Casino Connection asked Tassan to impart some of his expertise.

CC: What distinguishes one wine from another? Is it simply a matter of grapes?

Tassan: The grape gives flavor to the wine, which is why a Sauvignon is not a Chardonnay. However, the same grape does not always produce the same wine. For example, all the Pinot Noir from a Burgundy vineyard is different. The soil and ground are extremely important.

A wine is the result (a kind of equation) of the combination of the climate, weather, soil, grape, winery, and winemaker. The same winemaker does not obtain the same wine every year. The ultimate goal of the winemaker is to create a wine that will excite the senses.

What tips can you offer a person who is not familiar with choosing wines?

In order to find the right wine for you, describe your preferences and taste to a person in charge of selling wine, or read wine magazines and pick a suggested wine close to your taste.

Tasting wine is very important, so I suggest that you buy only one bottle. If you enjoy the taste, then go back and buy another, or find one that better suits your liking.

What is a good wine to serve or give as a gift for the holiday season?

Sparkling wine makes a very good gift. It always captures a specific moment when you drink it. And champagne is always a must. Another good gift is a sweet tasting after-dinner drink, such as a sweet dessert wine.

When pairing wine with food, is it always correct to assume white wine with fish and poultry and red with meat? What are some of the things to consider when pairing wine with food?

You have to keep in mind that everybody has his own taste. In my job, I might have to find a red wine with fish if a guest asks for it, or a white with meat. The first step is to know the exact menu or dish you want the wine to accompany. You also have to take into consideration the season and the temperature of the weather.

These considerations will give you a guideline for the kind of character you want from a wine. After that, your task is to find the same character in the drink, or, on some occasions, the opposite. Whatever the combination, the end result should give more pleasure to the dining experience.

How does one go about becoming a wine collector?

In order to start collecting you must have a room to keep the wine in the right condition; otherwise you will lose your investment. Ask for some advice in a good store. Explain how long you want to keep your wine and they will advise you as to which wines to collect.

What's the finest wine you have ever tasted?

 I enjoy life, so I have tasted a lot of fine wines! The most impressive was a Tokay from Hungary, “Essenzia,” which was more than 50 years old. It was like a holy nectar.

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