Vol.2, No. 12 December 2005
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Painting The Town
Arts and more in Philadelphia
In Philadelphia, where cozy brownstones and cobblestone streets nestle up against the tall peaks of corporate America, the typical visit has become an art form. Whether your passion is dance, music, theater, history, the fine arts or entertainment, the City of Brotherly Love serves it up in a cultural landscape as detailed as Rembrandt and as colorful as Picasso. This season is no exception.
"It's such a good time to visit," said Cara Schneider, spokesperson for the Greater Philadelphia Tourism Marketing Corporation (GPTMC). "We have an unusually busy fall and winter planned."
A trip on any given day would suffice to experience some of Philadelphia's events and attractions, but keep in mind that "Philly's More Fun When You Sleep Over," according to the popular tourism slogan. And Philadelphia has plenty to fill both your days and nights.
Day by Day
For day trips, choose your area of interest. If it's history, the 17-block-long stretch of Independence National Historical Park is a good place to start. Located in Center City, the Park features 15 buildings and monuments central to the founding of our nation. It's also where you'll find Philadelphia's most famous, albeit cracked, bell. While you're there, you may want to indulge in a carriage ride complete with stories about Old Philadelphia. Unless the weather's bad, the horses are out and there are warm blankets available for passengers during the late fall and winter months.
Walking tours offer some of the best overviews of the historic district, and are far less expensive. But if it's cold or windy, you may decide to opt for a double-decker bus or trolley tour, or the "Super Ducks," with vehicles that travel both in water and on land.
If you're a real history buff, you might enjoy a trip to the Eastern State Penitentiary, which is open to the public for tours. Its soaring, castle-like Gothic building housed some of history's most notorious criminals, including Al Capone. See a restored 19th-century cell, the warden's office, several cellblocks, exercise yards, death row and even some critically acclaimed art.
On December 15, the National Constitution Center opens "Benjamin Franklin: In Search of a Better World." Featuring 40 interactive kiosks, the exhibit is the first time there has been a central repository of Benjamin Franklin information, despite his popularity. It kicks off a year-long celebration of his life and contributions.
"Ben turns 300 this January, and he's the first founding father to do so," said Schneider. "So we're celebrating. He's endlessly interesting and very funny. The exhibit plays that up. Part of it is narrated in his own words."
And while history is a natural Philadelphia focus, you don't want to miss some of the season's most innovative art exhibits. Schneider describes the exhibits as "peeping into somewhere you normally wouldn't be allowed to go."
The international show "Gunther von Hagens' Body Worlds: The Anatomical Exhibition of Real Human Bodies" makes its debut at the Franklin Institute. The exhibit has already generated widespread press and long lines in Europe, Los Angeles and Chicago. It makes its East Coast debut in Philadelphia.
"Dr. von Hagens is a German scientist who works with human cadavers," said Schneider. "He replaces the live material in the bodies and then displays them whole or in part. It's a unique and fascinating look at our physiology and what it means to be human." Because of its graphic nature, children under 13 must be accompanied by their parents or have a signed permission slip.
For a more traditional, yet equally distinctive, exhibit, "Private Hands" at the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts offers paintings that you'd never normally see in an exhibit. That's because they all hail from private collectors, many who have them hanging in their living rooms. The Academy has borrowed 100 works to display as a tribute to its 200th anniversary year.
The Freebies
If you're budget-conscious, check out the many attractions that are free, or close to it, in town. One of the most extensive displays of art adorns outdoor spaces in Philadelphia. In fact, the city is covered with murals, 2,500 or more. According to Schneider, Philadelphia was the first city in the 1950s to allot a percentage of building costs for public art. In 1984, Mayor Wilson Goode created the Mural Arts Program as part of an Anti-Graffiti Network. Do a self-guided mural walking tour, from the palm trees on South Street to William Penn and freedom-seekers at Independence Hall. In Chinatown, there's the elaborate green dragon swimming in a blue sea and a more stylized version of birds on a tree, representing paradise.
If you like architecture, you can see 200 years' worth, in a 20-mile walk across the city. Perhaps the most famous structure is the Parthenon-like Philadelphia Museum of Art. (Yes, Rocky's running track in the movie.) On Sundays, it's "pay as you wish." Otherwise there is a nominal admission fee. It is the third-largest art museum in the country, with impressive collections in just about every school of art.
See antique fire engines and a special September 11 exhibit at the Fireman's Hall, a former station run by retired fire fighters. Visit Elfreth's Alley, the oldest continuously occupied residential street in the U.S. Take a stroll through the Reading Terminal Market. Or get a bird's eye view of Philadelphia on City Hall's observation deck. It's all available for free or a small fee.
The Philadelphia Sleepover
Is Philly really more fun when you sleep over? Ask the thousands of people who regularly enjoy the town's active night life.
Plan your visit to Philadelphia on a "First Friday." That's when Old City galleries host an open house for art lovers. The 40-plus galleries stay open late, from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., and serve free light refreshments.
But any day of the week, you'll find activity on South Street, the hippest street in town. It's an area lined with restaurants and clubs, and bustling with young people. For a more refined but equally trendy experience, head to Old City. It's known for its restaurants and usually attracts a stylish crowd.
If you're looking for something to do after dinner, more than 125 theatrical productions perform in Philadelphia each season. From classic dramas to musicals to avant garde productions, there is a variety of mid-size companies that perform in town.
The Academy of Music is a must for music fans and history buffs alike. Built in 1857 and modeled after La Scala Opera House in Milan, it is the oldest known opera house continuously in use in the U.S.
Check out the many special events that the town offers. To celebrate Benjamin Franklin's birthday, Philadelphia will be holding a family pajama party at the National Constitution Center during Martin Luther King's celebration weekend, which coincidentally falls about the time of Ben's real birthday, January 17. While guests can't really sleep over, they will be asked to come in their pajamas or robes and enjoy games, movies, dancing and refreshments.
Holiday Happenings
This season, Philadelphia is not only filled with its usual events and exhibits but a special roster of holiday happenings. The season kicks off with shopping bag and brochure giveaways on Black Friday. That's the day that the Blue Cross Riverrink will open at Penn's Landing and the Reading Terminal will showcase its holiday railway display.
"We have a special program called Holiday Lights, Legends and Landmarks," said Michelle Shannon, vice president of marketing and communications for the Center City District. "The centerpiece of this program is an extraordinary lighting of City Hall—illuminating the east and west portals in a way that no one has seen before. The display uses intricate projected imagery designed by Arts Opera Promotions of Paris, France."
City Hall will be officially lit on November 30 at 5 p.m. when the tree is illuminated, and the lights will be on display in the evenings throughout the holiday season. The Center City District will also hold free tours and storytelling on Wednesdays and Saturdays in December at Lord and Taylor, the Gallery at Market East and the Reading Terminal Headhouse.
Then, of course, there will be the holiday performances of The Nutcracker and the organ at Strawbridge and Clothier, formerly Wannamaker's. Other seasonal events include the Rittenhouse Row Tree Lighting, the Army/Navy Weekend, PATCO's 14th Annual Yuletide Ride and the Mummers Fest at the Pennsylvania Convention Center.
"Philadelphia has a host of holiday traditions that are unlike any you can see in the surrounding area," said Shannon. "People come from all over to experience it. In fact, parents have been bringing their kids here since they were young, and now those kids are grown and bringing their own. It's a tradition that has been passed down from generation to generation."
Plan Your Visit
Before you head to Philadelphia, visit www.gophila.com for itineraries and information on area attractions and lodging. Without a computer? Contact the Greater Philadelphia Tourism Marketing Corporation at 215-599-0776 for free brochures and plenty of ideas.
